Day 1 - 295 KMs, Punta Arenas, Chile (15:30) to Lake Sofia, Chile (00:30, 19/2)

A Rude Awakening – The Beginning

This was a very long day. I woke up at 0700 to get breakfast.  The night before, in my 1/2 state of sleep watched my dorm mate, A South Korean girl, go to bed wearing her street clothes which were leggings and a Jean skirt and a hoodie. Very strange indeed as the backpacker was warm inside and she could could've changed in the bathroom for bedtime. Anyway I rolled my eyes, and thought. Oh whatever.  I woke up had breakfast it was pretty good and I tried to talk to the South Korean girl using Spanish very briefly. Anyway at this point I knew my Spanish is not doing well. 

The VAN before I left for my long road trip

There was a couple from Santiago who stayed at the backpacker because they were picking up their camper van the same morning as I was.  Things were slow going at 10 AM when w we were supposed to take our camper vans out.


Alexandro, the host of the backpacker, who was quite slow to sort things out. He was very friendly though.  When he came down to my van, he noticed a problem that the stereo and cigarette adapter were not suddenly working.  So three hours passed and we couldn't figure out why. He changed circuit breaker–– Didn't work. He made a few phone calls …nothing.  I was getting pretty bummed out because it was quite clear that there were no other available camper vans at the depot for me to take.   And worse off the Chevy dealership, who was going to service the van, doesn't open till 3 PM… Yes I said 3 PM! Around 1425 when it was comes to me says he fixes the problem. I go out and check and what do you know it's fixed yeah!!  So I get going within 10 minutes.    

My host gives me directions to the petrol station in where the grocery stores are.  Sounds easy right? Not!  So I really screw up the easy directions to the petrol station.  No worries I only missed by one turn.  Then I drive down the main road leading out of town, enter into a huge conglomerate of stores.  However I forgot to ask the name of the primary supermarket.  In up driving around for 20 minutes in this maze of Spanish named businesses. uugh!  After driving running circles twice I finally get the guts to ask a local and my crappy Spanish skills.

They pointed down the street to a store with a bunch of cars parked.  Well I get to a store that is a supermarket but it's not very "super".  It looks like well small FourSquare back in Wellington.  So they sell food I'll go in.  Not knowing what the prices are supposed to be for anything, I shopped for the lowest priced items for the items for the types of items I need. I bought things like canned tune, pasta, canned fruit, bottled juices, and bottled water.  However I noticed that have no fresh vegetables/fruit and sold no bread.  The store also sells jean, hoodies and automotive supplies.  Yeah right it's doesn't seem like a supermarket to me.  So I spent about 18,002 CLP which is not much in New Zealand dollars by the way.  

The REAL supermarket for Punta Arenas, Chile

I made a U-turn on the next block to head out of the shopping village and see a massive store with people coming in and out of it.  So I get curious and go in. What you know -- this is the real supermarket!!


The store name is strange from my experience, but I was happy to find a good supermarket.!  Ha ha I'll bet I spent way too much money at the other place.  So I parked the van I go inside to buy items like bread, dishwashing soap, cheese, butter all kinds of stuff that I'm in need for the next 24 days. The store is huge like a super Walmart, however I noticed quickly that there's no fresh meat deli or vegetable aisle. Very strange indeed.  So I'm remembering what Juan (back in NZ) told me many times, "if you're vegetarian you're going to have problems eating in South America!".  "No shit!" I am thinking.  Anyway I bought a whole bunch of cans of vegetables and fruits satisfy my future hunger needs.  Oh and yes there is no fresh fruit aisle either.  

So I hit the road I leave town.  The drive is going well as it's very windy.   The road ahead was very windy and gloomy.   

Windy, desolate, and dark Ruta 9 Norte.  I was driving into a deathly looking rain storm on day#1 of my long
Northbound solo journey. Is this a sign of things to come??  

The weather on Ruta 9 Norte eventually cleared up after some hard, but brief heavy rains

Guys driving dual sport motorcycles like my BMW F650GS, are passing me slowly but surely.  They are getting blown around the wind very much. This makes me happy that I made the decision not to do the Patagonia motorbike hire.    After the weather cleared up, I decided to make some music videos with classic Eagle's music.  Check this one out:

Than that at about 175 KMs into my drive I got behind this very dodgy delivery truck that was carrying drums of oil.  It looks like the 2 tires on on both 2 axils were about to fall off!  Holy shit! There was a car between the truck and myself however so I couldn't pass.  The car in front of me eventually passed and so did I.  I was tempted to turn on my camera to film, but I was more concerned with passing this death trap of truck.

I  eventually make it to the town of Puerto Natales.   However I think I passed entryway into Argentina?  I keep him anyway  and find a petrol station to fill up the tank.  I bravely attempt to ask the attendant where I can get into Argentina from.   He looks at me like I’m stupid.   And he says, “No comprende English”.  Yes I forgot I’m not in New Zealand anymore!  So I try to ask him in Espanol.   He still looks at me funny a little bit, but then  he says, “Oh si!”, and then he proceeds to drop me a map on the dusty ground to where I need to go. He has a big friendly Spanish smile, And he says to me, “hasta la vista y Buenos noches!”,  And walks away waving  to me.  

So I’m driving down the road looking for the left turn off for the  Argentinian border crossing.   I find it but something strange is happening––– there’s nobody in the building but it’s open.   So I  knock on some doors saying hola.    Nobody is there?  ? I walk over to the other building Word there are two police officers talking.   I try to  asked them in Spanish how do I get to Argentina.   I’m  not  Lucky at all.   So they point to the building where  I just came from  hinting at me to go back there.   In using body language and facial expressions, to tell him I did go there but nobody’s home.   So the police officer walked me over to the building, ha ha and magically there are three customs officers in there helping one person.    Where did everybody come from?  There’s nobody there whatsoever just like two minutes ago.  

So anyway I try my Spanish again, But with these customs officers  do not understand English.   So being the   friendly people that they are,  invites me around to his side of the security door to type in what I want to ask him on Google translate.  Very smart man.  So for about 25 minutes to go back and forth using Google translate any understands what I want to do.  He asked me if I want to stay in Chile and see the national park ahead.   I told him yes I do.   But then he smiles and looks at his colleague, and types and something in Spanish was comes out to, “you need to stay in Chile and come back for where you came from.   You going straight.   You could enter Argentina after you go to the park through another border crossing”.   After typing that verbally says to me and very very very choppy English, “I need English lessons”.   I replied with, “yo Tengo espanol lessons”.   He shook my hand,  handed me back my passport/ van documentation and said,” Hasta luego y  buenos noches!!!”.  I replied with, “De nada”  which I’m pretty sure means thank you in Spanish.   He smiled and waved goodbye to me.   Anyway I kept going back to where I was.  

I made it to the town of Puerto Natales  which is on a big beautiful lake right in front of a national park which I want to see.   However I didn’t see how I could get over there?   I was really frustrated.   I stopped at a waterfront parking lot and smiled at a Spanish guy in an SUV beside me.   Look busy so I didn’t want to bother him to ask them.    I looked at my map, However it was not good enough to see the detail of what I want to see.   So I backed up and kept going. I eventually ended up at a dead-end where I could either go straight into her shipyard or bear left to a residential neighborhood. Okay now I’m thinking what the fuck?    I’m tired, Very tired, hungry, don’t speak the local language really,  and lost in the dark.  

Oh boy…  so I turn around and went back to the same parking lot where I saw the guy in the SUV.   He was still there just my luck.

So I stopped the car I put on my head torch,  look at my map looked over at him and he was sitting in his car smoking.   So with the van still running, I walked over and said hello to him in Spanish and then asked him if he spoke English.   He nodded his head no  of course.    So I put on my map took my torch off my head, and try to explain to him  in slow very bad Spanish were wanted to go.   He spoke slow  enough Spanish so I can understand.    He used body language and hand motions to make his Spanish easier to understand.    Got what he was saying perfectly.

I went back to the car after shaking his hand  with a big smiling gracias!    I told him my smart phone and realized I’ve a data plan I turn it on so I turned on Google maps.    I saw where I was in the world and I saw what he was talking about with regards to where I need to go.   So with all of that my new information in my head I was pretty sorted.   I was driving along Rte 9 Norte and saw the gravel road turn off that I was looking for. I was looking for place called “Puerto Prat”.  



So I was on the gravel road which was better to be on… what could possibly go wrong now???   Well I’m driving along about  50 km/h and I’m noticing that they’re wild hares everywhere scattering like rats when you turn the light.  Holy shit!   I was seeing one of these things every 25 m.   I even passed by some wild horses in the dark  and the night.   I’m going along and about 25km  later I see the sign for the little Port I’m looking for.   No I’m not looking to go there that’s just a landmark for me to drive past so I can go into the national Park via the gravel road.   Usually got all roads are better views of things and  paved roads from my experience.   So I’m going along and suddenly the gravel road that is supposed to go into  the park ENDS!!!    It ends at someone’s house? What the fuck?   And my lost?    How did that happen? !   So I stopped turnaround and get away from someone’s private home.

I turned back on my data on my cell phone and turn on Google maps.    According to Google maps, A double road stops right there, but the map I bought on Amazon.com shows the road going into the park itself.   I don’t blame the maker of the map for this I blame the country of Chile for giving them the wrong information the print on the map.    Oh well  this water under the bridge now I suppose.    So I’m driving along going back to the main highway was dark gravel road Little furry bunnies running around everywhere.   I should quite surprised I didn’t run one over.    I saw her turn off to the left which would’ve been to my right coming in  that I missed/ did not see.    So I stopped and looked at Google maps again.   Awesome!   It turns out that this road is a shortcut back to the main highway!  

Not!   I  realize this is not true because after driving three commoners as he signs in Spanish saying that the road is closed ahead under construction.    – It looks like the road is new has never been there before and that we have the authorities told the printing company that the road was there when  it was not yet completed.   Ouch!     So I reversed myself, On the side road then turn left back on the main gravel road which I was on before then headed out to the main highway.   Driving the scrabble road backwards to where I came from well because I drove for about 35 minutes in total.    I was happy to see the main sealed road.    So I turned left towards the  park   and quickly got up to the speed of the 95 km/h.   Is now getting really late and I  am extremely tired.   It is now about 2345 hours and I’m really tired.   I’m simply looking for a place to pull off and sleep that’s not on open highway.     I drove for 20 more minutes or so and finally came to a sign that said “Lake Sophia”.    The sign pointed to the left.    

I didn’t see this lake on any map I had  whatsoever.    So I looked at Google maps again and saw the road was not long maybe about a 10 minute drive but it look like a gravel road.    So I said what the hell and I gave it a try.     I’m driving down the slight sloping gravel road and passed over two cattle stops.      Just has 1 million of the road I see you A private property sign written in Spanish.    However that was a gate.    I drove about 100 more meters and pointed the van towards what I heard that was a lake.    I could see the whitecaps on the lake due to the  windy  night.     I drive the van and a complete circle to see what’s around me and I think I could see a tent hiding behind a rock.    However I really won’t be sure until morning actually  of what it is.     I backed the van towards the friends of the lake and stoped the engine.

I’m here I made it I’m alive… and I’m so fucking tired.    I looked up and I can see quite a few stars, but I can also see that there are mountains around me.   I am really too tired to do stargazing now.  

I made a quick sandwich for myself because I was starving and prepped the back the van for bedtime.   This was the first time I’ve prepped the van so it took  quite a while.    After getting changed and my sleeping bag out but I got out my laptop to dictate this blog  entry at about 12:45 AM.     It is now 01:59 and I’m finally finished my first blog entry for my road trip from Punta Arenas to Santiago.    I guess I’ll find out what this place looks like tomorrow morning when the sun comes up.   Zzzzzz

Daily summary:  

Well today was a challenging and very frustrating day.  To start the van thing worried me.  A brand-new van and suddenly the electrics failed.  Fuck.  This is a reason why I'll never buy US-made car.  Chevrolets are pieces of shit.  Anyway it was a long day and I learned some lessons for road trips.

a) Don't start so late like at 3 PM (that was not my fault by the way).
b) Do not drive at night especially on gravel roads
c) Try to plan out your day better. Like having idea of where you want to go the next day, but be flexible of course.  
d) Try not to sleep in till 10-11 AM unless your feeling ill.
e) I can only tell that my lack of good Spanish-speaking skills is going to be a problem on this road trip.