Friday 20 February 2015

Day 3 - 383 KMs, Area de Acampar Pehoe, Parque Nacional, Chile (11:00) to El Calafate, Argentina (20:15)

Quest for Shitty Argentinian Roads(?)

So I woke up this morning to a perfect campsite...oh so sweet!!! 
Good Morning!!  GoPro selfie stick in
Torres Del Paine camping. Oh yeah!

While this doesn't make sense, I slept so great because I was excited to be there and not driving anymore. When I went to sleep, it was little bit cloudy and breezy.   When I woke up it was totally cloudy in look like it was about to rain.   It wasn’t raining so I cooked my breakfast as usual.   Porridge, hot chocolate,  and
chocolate spread on bread was on the menu! I really wish I could get some fruit for breakfast but I  have not seen fresh fruit anywhere in South America yet.    The only fresh fruit I have eaten was on my recent Antarctic cruise out of Ushuaia, Argentina. This is probably most likely because the ship ordered in the fruits in from overseas(?)..  Anyway the best part of the morning was that I was able to get a hot shower.  I  had a very long shower in it felt good despite the dirtiness of the showers and hundreds of spiders everywhere...soaking up the moist air!  


After that, I headed out to the park towards the Argentine border.  I ran into, not literally, a couple of adventure riders.  
Adventure Motorcyclists in Torres Del Paine
National Parque
I was jealous, but realised still I was not
ready enough to do a Patagonia ride. On the way out I saw a nice place to go for a hike, so I turn left to a place that I cannot remember the name of it.  
My hike lasted about 45 minutes return and I took a lot of good pictures & a view good videos of raging waterfalls.  


Pano photo from my hike of the area including the waterfalls



Someone on this hiking trail told me that the Argentinian border was only 40 kilometres away from where I was parked at the hiking spot.   They didn’t know what they were talking about.   The drive to the Argentinian border to Camille was over two hours of driving through some of the most  remote lands I’ve ever seen.    
Besides A few massive 4x4 tour buses 
Massive 4x4 tour buses to handle any terrain!
driving way too fast coming against me, I saw no other traffic on my way to the border.






After 2 hours of driving on remote roads of nothing
headed East from Torres Del Paine
National Parque to the Argentine Border.
What looks like wild deer graze along the side of the remote
roads just East of Torres Del Paine National Parque...

Before getting to the border called Cerro Castillo, I hit some sealed road which was very nice. I was able to drive on a sealed road for about 30 minutes until I saw the actual border crossing.  Occasionally I saw herds of wild deer as well.Before I went to the border building, there was a little café just before the border.    And when inside and looked around.    I buy some candy, A sticker, some chewing gum and a postcard. I parked the car near the border building and went inside.   The  process was easy.  The officer stamped my passport for leaving Chile and stamping my rental car papers.  After getting that done, I then jump into "no mans land" where I casually was not in Chile or Argentina;  this is quite a weird feeling.  

Anyway I got to the Argentinian border,  in there was nobody there except 2 security guys with nothing around them except the desert roads Rolling hills and a few green bushes.    The guy smiled with me to come into the office.    I  showed him my New Zealand passport in car rental papers.  He said he never saw a NZ passport before. How exciting for him!  He’s stamped my passport
for entering Argentina.  He then stamped in my car paperwork entries. He gave me directions to El Calafate, but  since the  Gravel roads are not marked well I missed the turn off.  

Luckily I realised my mistake in turnaround and made the road.   This road was about two hours of rough gravel road.   This was Rte 40.  Is more resembled a rocky-let's-destroy-this-tourist's-rental-van farm road more than a highway.

For some reason at this point I was so very tired.  The road was hell on Earth. In fact, it was so bad that I temporarily ceased all photography and video except a few GoPro videos so I could concentrate on driving.  This is what the drive was like but it took 1.5 hours to get through this rubbish road:


 I was hungry & tired there was hard to concentrate on this rough gravel road in front of me.  It was also hot, but also a little rainy too.  Unlike a sealed road when you don’t need to worry about potholes and rocks, on this road every rock on the road, if run over anything the wrong way it could cause me to have an accident.

So I turned the music up louder and ate some food to wake my sorry ass up.  Eventually I came to the end of this deathly gravel road & found a fresh sealed highway. This was also named "Ruta 40 Norte" which is all very confusing.   Anyway at about 40 kilometres is where I need to go to the next petrol station. When I finally got to this petrol station, the station owner came out of a rusty old house to tell me there was no petrol left.   He told me I had to drive 80 kilometres more to the East to a little outpost called “Esperanza”.   So here I go, but at least it's a sealed road...right?



The "sealed" version of Ruta 40 North

When I arrived at Esperanza, there was a huge line of cars, trucks and big rigs waiting to fill up their tanks.  Nobody was allowed to pump their own fuel… why I’ve no idea?   Anyway I waited for 25 minutes to get my tank filled up.  After filling up my tank, I moved the van off to the side and got some gourmet food inside the petrol station (LOL!).  I bought a cheap ham/cheese sandwhich, a cold pre-made Starbucks frappachino coffee, and some Doritos for a meal.    Is not very healthy, but it keeps me going.   On the side of the road it says I need to drive 110 kilometres more to reach El Calafate.
The sandwich I bought  & ate earlier was making me more tired and sick to my stomach.  It started raining…  really hard.    This is no good.    I’m driving 110 m/h just to keep up with traffic on a highway with a speed limit is 90-100 km/h.   This is a single lane highway  each side.    I took a few videos with music along way to humour myself  and to help keep me awake.   It seem to work then I’m tired again.

As I approached the entrance to the small  outpost Town,   there was a police barricade stopping everybody coming into the town.   This was strange I was thinking.   It is not Argentine customs so what the fuck?   As is my turn to go to  the front of the line, an officer hand me a plastic rubbish bag, some adverts/flyers and a map of El Calafate inside it.    I’m thinking,” do cops  do marketing work as a side job?”.    As you realise that there is something   happening in the city.  

There’re cars everywhere, people walking down the street, Et cetera.   It was getting dark so I tried to find a backpacker actually because there’s no way to park my van.    I saw a YHA backpacker immediately stopped  them inside to ask if there was a bed available.    The girl smiled and said no sorry we are fully booked until three days from now.    I asked what was going on, she said, "there’s a big music festival in town for the next three days.". I told her, "I’m just driving through  here and not staying"..     She smiled again and said "you picked the wrong weekend to drive-through" -- figures this town is crazy.    She recommended I’d  drive down the street in try to park in a camper van area.    I pulled into one campervan area in  in it said it was  full, but I tried anyway because I was so damm tired (& hungry too!).  


After the struggle of English/Spanish language thing for 10 minutes, I realised the Spanish girls inside said I could pay 80 pesos to park my car right beside the building.   Wow this was very nice of them, I was parked right by the bathroom  in the right by the front gate.   I was so tired any didnt care I said yes.   I gave them the 80 pesos in back my van into this but they told me to.   At that point the rain started coming down very hard.   So I took off my shoes put underneath/ inside of van & sealed up for the night.    In a quick 5 minutes I ate a cheese sandwich (disgusting) and  drank some water.    I do recall noticing this massive German made SUV/survival vehicle parked beside me. I need to check this out tomorrow morning for sure (see my blog entry for 21/2/2015).

I began my nightly ritual of copying over my videos and photos for the day to my external hard drive, and then started writing this blog entry.    I was lucky enough to have Wi-Fi access here to be  able to send my sweet Rebecca a few texts back and forth over WhatsApp. It is now 2357 in the evening, it’s raining hard and I’m very tired.   


Tomorrow I’m going into the park to find a nice quiet spot to organise the rest of my trip with regards to day and schedules.   Even though I am 21 days left on my trip, I have a shitload driving to do it mostly on gravel roads so I need to be careful on how I   plan  this out. Now let the sound of the rain put me to sleep.

For anyone staying here, here's the password to the WIFI there:  

The password is "moscow4367"












Sorry I don't recall the name of the campground, but it's easy to find.

 Zzz


Daily Summary:

It was a pretty good day today with a very good beginning.  The Scenery in the national park was amazing, but after that it was very mind-numbing. The long gravel roads I drove today really tested my sanity as well as the stamina of the vehicle.  Getting into El Calafate was nice, but I was very tired when I got there. Looking forward to tomorrow and more adventures. In my mind I'm slowly getting into this road trip feeling my way through Patagonia if that makes any sense...


No comments:

Post a Comment